Inside: Spice Market

A New York trendsetter spices up Atlanta

By Ronda Racha Penrice

Metromix
August 5, 2008

 
Critic's Rating:
3

Inside: Spice Market
(Credit: The Reynolds Group)

Hotel restaurants don’t normally catch on this fast but Midtown is the new Buckhead and Spice Market is easily one of the new favorite things in Atlanta. Housed in the W Hotel Midtown, Spice Market is further evidence that the Atlanta hip factor is off the Richter scale. Slowly but surely, the world is feeding Atlanta.

History: Chef/owner Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened the first Spice Market in New York City, in the now trendy Meatpacking District, in 2004. For the Atlanta version, the first outside of New York, Vongerichten is spreading trendy Southeast Asian global street cuisine through the trendy W brand. To execute his menu, Vongerichten tapped Ian Winslide, one-time chef at Shout and Bluepointe. Open since March, Spice Market has been making itself comfortable in the Midtown restaurant landscape.

Atmosphere: Definitely worldly, Spice Market is a sight to behold. Oversized wooden boxes hang from the ceiling with gold ropes and bells quietly tucked inside. Asian accents are present with silk pillows strewn about. In the day, it’s a marvel that comforts and soothes. At night, it’s sexy beyond belief. It’s sort of like going from a sophisticated, daytime work look to a smoldering sexpot nighttime one; neither disappoints and each serves a purpose.

The Goods: A restaurant can’t survive on style alone and Spice Market isn’t trying. The black pepper shrimp served on a bed of sun dried pineapple is an absolute must. It’s so good you might not want to try anything else, but do resist that urge. The crunchy calamari and the spiced chicken samosas with cilantro yogurt, also stars among the appetizers, might just help you move on. Do give the fragrant miso soup with shrimp dumplings and herbs a chance. It’s definitely not what you’re used to, but worth a walk on the culinary wild side.

For the main meal, you can play it safe with the char-grilled chicken or get a little fishy with the salmon cha ca la vong. Okay, we don’t know what that means either, but it might just surprise you. The jasmine rice or the ginger fried rice might be the perfect way to enjoy the meal fully. Vegetarians need not worry, at Spice Market, you can eat too. Spicy Shanghai noodles with chilled silken tofu can even tempt carnivores. For dessert, the ice cream is a must. The mango is nice and fruity, but the creamy and smooth coffee ice cream is on a completely new level.

Drinks: Nonalcoholic beverages such as the jasmine lemonade and fresh ginger ale are a tasty departure from the norm, but the ginger margarita, the kumquat mojito and the Saigon cosmo are the real treats. After all, there’s nothing like adding a twist to a trusted favorite. Similar to a small orange, the kumquat, which originated in China, gives the standard mojito a flavor uplift. Meanwhile, a splash of sake is the secret kick to the Saigon cosmo.

Helpful Tips: Between 11:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m., the Bento Box, a 20-minute express lunch that includes satay, two pieces of meat, rice, cod, soup and dessert, is a good bet for just $15.  Also, valet instead of going the Colony Square parking route. Spice Market validates and that could save you some serious cash and, yes, reservations are a good idea.

Spice Market serves breakfast, lunch and dinner but lunch and dinner is where the Southeast Asian flavors rule. Hours are Monday thru Thursday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday, 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Saturday, 9 a.m.-11 p.m. and Sunday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.

188 14th Street NE, inside the W Hotel Midtown, (404) 549-5450, Spice Market.

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