Quick Look: Lupe Taqueria

Guacamole con pina y menta

Lupe Taqueria, the latest from well-known restaurateur Riccardo Ullio, has big ambitions. The restaurant is named for Our Lady of Guadalupe, a religious icon that's practically synonymous with Mexican culture. Upgrading Atlanta’s expectations of Mexican food is no easy task, but Executive Chef Darvelio Palma and his sister, Maria Palma, both natives of Acapulco, Mexico, have taken on the challenge.

Formerly Cuerno, Lupe’s interior boasts some similarities to that spot. There’s a Spanish Colonial feel, but Lupe stands alone. Lighting is an intimate affair, as candles dot all of the floor-to-ceiling windows. Even the hanging light fixtures serve as candelabras. Detailing is exquisite and there are even replicas of Our Lady of Guadalupe hidden in the restaurant.

Nice space aside, it’s the food that scores. As with every Mexican restaurant, tortilla chips are a staple and so are salsa, queso and guacamole. Lupe’s queso dips are particularly noteworthy. Queso con Poblanos, made with cotija and chihuahua cheeses, will bring to mind an invitation to someone's home along the Mexican countryside.

Guacamole comes in several varieties, including one with pineapples. For entrees, a good choice is the enchilladas de pollo, which is served with rice and refried beans. Tacos are served in threes with several options available. For the more adventurous who might prefer a more authentically Mexican choice, there's even lengua (beef tongue), served with salsa verde. The mixto (ribeye) seems to be a more universally pleasing choice, though. Ensaladas are not forgotten, though. The arugula con mango is a beautiful mixture of jicama, mango, pistachios, lemon, extra-virgin olive oil and honey.

Desserts are inventive. Those who order the Aztec chocolate mousse shouldn't be surprised by the kick the pepper provides. For those desiring slightly more traditional fare, the guava creme brulee might be a better bet.

Lupe’s beautiful glasses make the drinks even more appealing but it’s the taste that ultimately counts. Priced at $7, the house margarita, known as the Lupe margarita, made with Sauza Conmemorativo Anejo, triple sec, fresh lime juice, simple syrup and served on the rocks with salt, is a crowd-pleaser. Sangre y Arena, Blood and Sand, mixes Scorpion reposado mescal with Cherry Herring, Punt e Mes sweet vermouth and orange juice with a dash of Maraschino liqueur, for a uniquely satisfying taste.

With personable servers who are willing to please, great food and prices that rarely exceed $15, Our Lady of Guadalupe has an easy assignment looking over Lupe.—Ronda Racha Penrice, Special to Metromix