Formerly a 14-seat restaurant operating out of what is now a much larger venue’s private dining room, La Pietra Cucina may look new, but the menu is tried-and-true, old-school Italian. Chef Bruce Logue traveled around Italy soaking up the flavors from all across the country before returning to Atlanta and perfecting his dishes, which reflect traditions from Tuscany and beyond.
The Midtown restaurant recently underwent a renovation and expansion and is now more than triple its previous size. The eatery imports key ingredients and beverages such as olive oil and wine from Italy. And it certainly shows—the olive oil, for example, is thicker than most and has a distinct orange accent. One of the wines in particular stands out, as it’s one of the few made by a female winemaker in Italy.
The menu: The food is fresh and light with very few of those heavy sauces and cheeses characterized by so many local Italian restaurants. House-cured salami and pickled stuff (yes, that’s what it says on the menu), and fried olives ascolana with green tomato chutney are popular for sharing and pair well when having a pre-dinner cocktail at the bar. The proscuitto di parma (Emilian flatbread with fresh ricotta and pineapple mostarda) is also popular.
In true Italian style, a selection of cold and warm antipasti come next. The tuna crudo with smooth avocado, marjoram and chilled cucumber brodo is a go-to dish, but the soft summer greens salad with blackberries, toasted pistachio, caprino and cherry balsamic dressing is perfect on a hot day. The sweetness of the fruit and dressing complement the nutty and creamy textures, resulting in an explosion of flavor. For something different, try the calamari in Sicilian tomato zupetta, which is basically a soup with vermentino, toasted garlic, cous cous and pine nuts.
The primi dishes, or pastas, are all handmade and cooked to order. All sausages are cured in-house and actually hang to dry in the glassed-in wine room near the restaurant’s entrance. Carla’s Tagliatelle—pasta with morel mushrooms, wild ramps and Parmigiano—has a light buttery sauce that really allows the freshness of the food to shine. The Bucatini Amatricia is a heavier dish with guanciale, red onion and Roman Pecorino. There are fewer secondi options; these include wood-roasted whole fish, Columbia River salmon and dry-rubbed Painted Hills flat iron steak. Warm zepoles with chocolate sauce and lemon zest are the highlight of the dessert list.
The drinks: Champagne and wine pairings are available, and the cocktail menu features treats like the Sicilian—Plymouth gin, limoncello, fresh-squeezed lemon juice, simple syrup, fresh basil and tonic water, and the sweet Milano Torino—Tuaca Italian liquor, amaretto, cranberry juice and red wine.
The atmosphere: The decor is opulent with warm woods, burnt orange walls and painted loft-like ceilings. The bar tables are made to look antique and paired with high-back chairs with small, decorative pillows. Historic-looking portraits hang on the walls, creating a royal feel. The look, together with the rustic food, makes for a unique experience on the whole.
