Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder

Whiskey gets all the fun: the Jon Hamms and Christina Hendricks-es of the world showboat it, bands like Bon Iver and Chromeo shill for it. Any drink by comparison will look a bit lacking in pop culture-but you're particularly behind if you've only been legal in the states for five years.

So sits absinthe. It was once said to be a favorite of classical culture. Artists like Van Gogh, Picasso and...